Old Dhaka: Lanes of History, the Aroma of Heritage, and a City of Flavours

By

Iffat Ara Habib

Nestled within the bustling capital of Bangladesh lies a world where the past clings tightly to the present a world often overlooked amid the city's modern rush. This is old Dhaka, the historic heart of the city where narrow lanes breathe stories of centuries gone by, where the sounds, sights, and smells spell a unique kind of magic. Wandering through old Dhaka is like stepping into a living museum, vivid with the aromas of spices, the chatter of devotion, and the colourful tapestry of life that refuses to fade despite the march of time. 

A Glimpse into Dhaka’s Storied Past

Old Dhaka’s roots run deep, tracing back to the Mughal Empire's rule. In 1610, the city was officially declared the capital of Bengal by Subahdar Islam Khan. This declaration transformed old Dhaka into more than just a settlement; it became a powerful center of administration and rich culture. The echoes of this era are etched vividly in old Dhaka’s architecture and monuments. Landmarks like Ahsan Manzil, the former royal palace with its pink façade and grand domes, still speak of the luxury and political significance of the time. The intricately designed Lalbagh Fort stands as a prized symbol of Mughal military architecture, while Tara Masjid’s graceful minarets tell tales of religious devotion woven into daily life.

But old Dhaka’s heritage doesn’t exist in faded relics alone. The area’s bustling markets Shankhari Bazar with its narrow winding streets lined by shops selling handcrafted goods, and Tanti Bazar, once the hub for cotton weavers remain centers of local craft and culture, anchoring the neighborhood’s living history through daily commerce.

The Pulse of the Lanes: Life in Old Dhaka

To truly understand old Dhaka, you need to step into its labyrinth of lanes. These narrow streets are the veins of the city, pulsing with life before dawn and winding down long after dark. It’s here that the city’s charm thrums at its loudest. Shopkeepers call out their wares, rickshaws weave through crowds, and neighbors exchange greetings and gossip as if time paused just briefly to hold onto tradition.

What makes old Dhaka truly special is its seamless coexistence of diverse communities. Muslim mosques share corners with Hindu temples, and Christians celebrate quietly alongside everyone else. This blend of faiths and cultures has created an atmosphere of inclusivity, where festivals and daily rituals merge into a symphony of colors, sounds, and flavors that feel uniquely old Dhaka. The old neighborhoods are where the social fabric of the city is sewn tightly: weddings, religious ceremonies, and public festivals fill the calendar, each one strengthening the bonds between residents and carrying traditions down through generations.

The Irresistible Flavors of Old Dhaka

Among old Dhaka’s most celebrated treasures is its food culture, a culinary tapestry woven from Mughal splendor and South Asian spices. If history tastes like anything, it would be the blend you find in the streets of old Dhaka, where aromas of centuries-old recipes waft through the air, promising experiences no five-star restaurant could offer.

Breakfast in old Dhaka might start with Nihari slow-cooked beef stew served piping hot with fresh flatbread. Eateries open early to cater to those who crave the rich, hearty flavors that fuel a day in the city. Goat trotters are another early-morning specialty, simmered to perfection, their gelatinous richness a beloved local delicacy.

Then there’s the ever-famous Kacchi Biryani a royal dish that combines fragrant basmati rice, marinated meat, and fragrant spices cooked together in a sealed pot, creating a dish that is much more than the sum of its parts. At afternoon tea, locals savor Bakarkhani, a thick, slightly sweet bread, often paired with strong, milky tea.

Old Dhaka’s royal-style jilapi is a dessert not to miss. These large, spiral-shaped sweets soak in sugar syrup until they glisten, offering a perfect blend of crisp and syrupy sweetness that melts in your mouth. Together, these dishes don't just fill stomachs; they tell stories of culture, trade, and history simmered across generations.

Ramadan in Old Dhaka: Chawkbazar’s Iftar Market

Every year, during the holy month of Ramadan, old Dhaka undergoes one of its most remarkable transformations. The Chawkbazar area turns into a sprawling iftar market one of the largest in Bangladesh. As the sun sets and the call to break the fast echoes, this market bursts into life. Stalls overflow with a seemingly endless array of delicacies: halim, a rich wheat and meat stew; borhani, a spicy yogurt drink; kebabs sizzling fresh off the grill; and sherbets in vibrant hues, promising refreshment and rejuvenation after hours of fasting. This bustling scene draws crowds not just from old Dhaka but the entire city, united in a shared celebration of faith and food.

Iftar in old Dhaka is more than a meal; it’s a community event where social bonds tighten and traditions are honored. The spirit of giving and sharing animates the streets, and in the warm glow of lanterns and the hum of conversation, the city’s soul shines.

Festivals and Community: Food as a Social Glue

In Old Dhaka, festivals are inseparable from food and togetherness. The traditions here are ancient and deeply embedded in the community’s life. Take Shab-e-Barat, the night of forgiveness, celebrated with the making of sweet halua and roti, a night when families gather and the spirit of communal prayer fills the air.

Eid, whether the Eid-ul-Fitr marking Ramadan’s end or Eid-ul-Adha, brings with it elaborate feasts that fill homes with the smell of roasted meats, fragrant rice, and delicate sweets. Similarly, Hindu festivals like Durga Puja bring their unique offerings, bursting with colors, tastes, and rituals that enrich Old Dhaka’s cultural mosaic.

And then there’s Shakrain, the kite-flying festival marking the end of the Bengali year. Here the skies above old Dhaka come alive with vibrant kites cutting across the sunset, while ground festivals buzz with music, food stalls, and laughter and exuberant celebration of life that embodies the city’s enduring spirit.

Old Dhaka: The Soul of a City Holding Time

Old Dhaka isn’t just an area of Dhaka; it’s the soul of the city, a place where history, culture, and cuisine coalesce in an almost palpable energy. Despite the rapid urban changes sweeping Dhaka, this old city preserves its essence with quiet pride, refusing to be swallowed by time.

Its crowded lanes, weathered buildings, and vibrant markets form a living chronicle. Every corner, every meal, every festival echoes the resilience of a community fiercely protective of its heritage a heritage that continues to define the vibrant character of Dhaka itself. Visiting old Dhaka is more than tourism it is an immersion into the layers of time, a sensory journey through the story of a city that wears its past not as a relic, but as its very heartbeat.

For anyone seeking to experience a city’s soul, old Dhaka offers a rare and unforgettable encounter. Walk its lanes, breathe in its spices, taste its heritage, and feel the pulse of a place where the past lives on with unabated charm.